Tuesday 5 May 2020

Cornish Road Trip - written August 2011

I have, for a reason I may yet discover, decided to travel around Cornwall entirely on my own with nothing but my tent and my mostly working car for company. This may not sound that important but I have never been on holiday completely alone before and I am not a fearless teenager. I’m 32, I’m a single girl on an adventure, and for me, this is a BIG deal.

List of essential:

Tent
Mallet - do NOT use your foot!
Spare pegs and that thing to pull them out with.
Sleeping bag
Pillow – use cushion from car
Blanket
Stove & spare gas canisters
Trangia (pack together pots & pans)
Toilet roll
Kitchen roll
Baby wipes
Wellies, umbrella & mac
Folding chair
Folding table
Matches.  Tip: keep matches in the car or at least in a plastic bag. Saves frustration with damp matches when in need of that 1st cuppa.
rucksack
camera and spare batteries
mobile phone and car charger. 
 

Having replaced my 40 year old much loved but now well past it 4th hand khaki green Challenger tent with a modern blue 2-man tunnel tent, I packed up my little green Peugeot 206 and headed for the West Country.

I had intended on leaving at 5.30am but not being an early bird, I always knew this was ambitious, but still, on the road by 8.30am isn't bad– and my cats has been fed – mustn’t forget them. I never listen to the traffic reports, first mistake. M25 south side is closed both directions. Ok, not a problem, armed with a satnav and a map – yes I’ve learnt to read a map – M25 north side instead. Yes it’s a little longer but what’s the point in fighting a road block. Everything went smoothly, music up, full fuel tank, 1st 3 nights booked, until part way down the M5 took 2 hours to go 10 junctions. Very glad I didn’t leave any later. Finally the traffic cleared and the queues started for the nearest service station, so I drove straight to the next one. Taunten Deane Services, I can highly recommend the Pasty Presto stand outside the main entrance. Alternatively there’s always Burger King – yuk – inside and Costa coffee mmm.

Finally I reached Cornwall and its like passing through an invisible barrier where everything on the other side is slower. As cars fly past and although I am driving the same speed had been for most of the journey, now it feels like I’m going far too fast. From St Austell I take the B3273 to Mevagissey and then the long winding road to the Seaview International Campsite in Boswinger which I stayed in last year. On exiting Mevagissey the road has sharp bends and in some places very narrow single track. Whatever the speed limit says, go slower! About 2-3 minutes from Boswinger the road becomes split in 3 parts, left, middle and right. The satnav directs up the right-hand track but don’t take this, its extremely narrow, steep and should be ignored. Going straight ahead (middle road) and staying on the 2-way road is a much better idea, a lot less hair raising and less hassle although fractionally longer.

1st night – The tent went up without a hitch and then the rain came. Having camped for many years in a tent, for some in the Highlands of Scotland and having had a good teacher, I knew I’d done everything correctly, but as the wind howled, the rain fell heavily and the thunder crashed, I was still a little nervous it might not withstand the battering. It's considerably colder in the tent than at home and its going to be a long night. Good job I brought multiple blankets.
 
The next morning my tent is still standing, the sun is shining and a helping hand to a fellow camper has got me an invite to breakfast, nice people with a similar sense of humour to mine. As they packed up to leave, I headed for the Eden Project. On the way there I called in at the Lost Gardens of Heligan where I spent a pleasant day last year, but this time I went to Lobbs Farm Shop in the entrance – didn’t have time last year. It’s a nice well presented shop, quite expensive – except for eggs and jute bags, but the people are friendly & will help in any way they can including offering recipes of desserts lost in time – and selling the ingredients of course. The shop also has demonstrations etc in an adjoining room so in my 5 minute stop I also went to a free art exhibition.  


I waited 9 years to go to the eco paradise The Eden Project, coming last year  v  on a very short visit solely to see it. Now I've come again and am not disappointed. Tip on approach : the furthest car parks (cherry and melon) are over a mile away from the visitor's centre/ticket office. Unless trying to clock up more pedometer steps or cycling to the entrance (bike racks are provided) park closer. Also wear trainers or good walking shoes & thinner/cooler clothes. The Rainforest Biome is well worth a visit but it is hot & very humid. 

So far I am having a good time, the tent is staying up and have met some nice people. Moving on tomorrow. It’s raining on and off but I don’t care, I have my (union jack) umbrella and wellies and a big person shaped plastic bag so I’m all sorted.

Day 3

Change of plan, I've decided to put the steam train off til later so instead an explore of the local beaches. Here I found Caerhays Castle & the beautiful Porthluney Cove.

If you've ever seen Pride & Prejudice, (the one with Colin Firth not the one with Kiera Knightly), there is a beautiful scene where Elizabeth Bennett is in a carriage with her aunt & uncle travelling along the very long tree lined driveway to the home of Mr Darcy. As the carriage turns a corner there is a break in the trees allowing for a clearing and here is where she first sees the magnificent Pemberley beside a lake. Although not accompanied by the appropriate music, I felt as though Elizabeth Bennett must have on first seeing Pemberley. (Pride & Prejudice, the one with Colin Firth not the one with Kiera Knightly) in seeing Caerhays Castle come into view.

The next stop for the night is Penance Mill Farm Touring Park. (TR11 5HJ. 01326 317431) On approach go to the bottom of the hill, not turn off earlier as sat nav says.
The tent is up. I'm pitched in the overnight field, there is a couple in a tent next to mine and another couple in their 50's opposite. All seems fine so I'm off for a little explore around Falmouth. It's evening when I return and my little corner of the field looks a bit different from when I left. The two couples have now gone and there is now from what I can hear, men in every tent. this may sound like an ideal opportunity to some but not for me. Being a woman on her own, not really knowing where I was, this made me uncomfortable to say the very least.

11.30pm: Too scared to sleep, so talk to my friend on the phone for hours and regular updates on facebook makes me feel a little safer. Have I just been kidding myself that I could do this? Really? By now I'm seriously considering finding the nearest Travelodge for tomorrow night but for now sleeping in the car is the best I can do to get some rest, its less roomy than the tent but much warmer and I feel safer. Good job I’ve got little legs.

Day 4

In Falmouth it’s regatta week & I'm off to historic Pendennis Castle. Cornwall is blessed with pleasant weather, the sun is high and warm with a gentle sea breeze. A day exploring before moving further afield.

A change of schedule, tomorrow there will be a medieval jousting tournament at the castle in full dress, music, food etc. I will definitely be coming back for the festivities. I rang a couple of motels but there was no room at the inn so I put aside my anxiety and phoned the campsite I’d just left.

As I hadn’t planned on staying another night I now wish I hadn’t taken my tent down, but the owners had no problem with me staying another night or 2 which was a great relief.  The campsite I didn’t like turned out to be really nice - how wrong could I be. 

A fantastic day watching the Jousting, unfortunately though I took more notice of the wind than the sun and now have a face like ripe pomegranante.

The day is well worth seeing but don’t forget a picnic and a seat as the day is long and so are the queues for food/drink. Also sunburn. Even though its overcast and breezy, I’ve got sunburnt but needed a jumper most of the day.

A brief stop at the Minack outdoor theatre is a sight to behold. Hand built from the rock by a small group of volunteers, then used to perform Shakespeare plays with the magnificent backdrop of the sea behind. A note of caution, the road to the theatre is very steep. Drive slowly.

After a fascinating yet tiring day at Tintagel Castle, the legendary birthplace of King Arthur, I put my possibly misplaced trust in my loyal friend Satnav. I have been taken down a narrow winding road with a 20% gradient. I don’t mind admitting I was a little scared. The trees blocked out the light so I couldn’t see the bottom, had no idea how far down this road went and for a moment froze, but even though there was no-one behind me I couldn’t go back, I couldn’t turn round, I could only go forward – into the dark, the unknown, gear in 1st & foot on the brakes I rolled down the hill. Fortunately my fear was short lived as I had only moved about 6-10 feet before I could see the light again 50 feet or so ahead of me. Bit hair raising getting here. My poor car must have thought I was torturing her.

Its getting dark and its been drizzling for hours, but the tent is up, its dry and the kettle’s on.

….until next time,

I hope you have enjoyed it and my trip tips will prove useful on your own adventures. 

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